May Day 2019: Parish Flood Preparation

May 1st was the Society of American Archivist's May Day, a time for archivists to do something to protect their holdings in the event of a disaster. May 5th to 11th is Emergency Preparedness Week in Canada, when we should all think about what we would do in a dangerous situation. It's good to plan for different events like fires, power outages, and storms, but at the moment there are a lot of communities in our province that are being affected by flooding. Here in the Archdiocese of Toronto we encourage parishes to keep their own archives, so we thought we'd write a few tips for parishes on how to prepare for and react to flooding to keep their records safe.

Flooding at College and Bathurst Streets, Toronto

April 7th, 1929

City of Toronto Archives, Fonds 1266, Item 16107

According to Conservation Ontario, "flooding is the leading cause of public emergency in Ontario." Many parts of the Archdiocese have been affected by flooding in the past, so everyone can benefit from planning ahead. Here are a few steps you can take to make sure that the records in your parish will survive this type of emergency.

Always:

• Think safety first. Your records aren't worth an injury.
• Work with a plan, not in panic.

Before a Flood:

• Know your risk: You can check the website of your local conservation authority to see if your parish lies within a floodplain; but, even if it's not in a flood plain, your church is not immune to flooding. Keep an eye on the news for warnings and alerts.
• Make a plan: Include your archives in your disaster plan. Having a plan ahead of time reduces the mistakes that come with panic. Make sure that key people like the pastor and other parish leaders are familiar with the plan and their roles and responsibilities. Practice your plan!
• Maintain your building: Your records are safer if your space is properly cared for. Clear gutters and downspouts to make sure water is directed away from the building, and make sure street drains are clear of ice or debris. Inspect for leaks or cracks that could let water in. 
• Make a list: Knowing what records are in your parish and their location can help you prioritize what to move if you have warning of a coming event, or help you prioritize what to recover after an event. A list also helps you keep track of where records have been moved so you don't lose anything.
• Store records properly: Keep vital records in a secure fireproof and waterproof cabinet. Do not store records in the basement or on the floor. Vital records are those that are essential to continuing operations. In a parish these would include sacramental registers, legal documents, financial documents, property records, insurance documents, contracts, leases, and anything else you need to function. 
• Back up important records: 
• Your electronic records should be backed up regularly on an external drive and stored in a secure location. The archdiocesan department of Management Information Services can provide advice. 
• Vital records on paper should be copied and kept in an secure location. Sacramental records are already microfilmed by the Archives, but other important documents should also be backed up and kept in a secure location. The Archives can provide advice.

During a Flood:

• Safety is number one! Don't walk into flooded areas until you have the OK to do so from maintenance personnel to reduce the risk of electrocution.
• Assess the situation. Communicate with disaster recovery team members and ensure that everyone knows what the plan is.
• If water is dripping from the ceiling, cover shelves and cabinets with plastic sheeting.
• If records are moved to higher ground or offsite, keep impeccable notes of their location. 

After a Flood:

• Call the Archives for advice and assistance.
• If your documents get wet they can be salvaged, but action needs to be taken quickly to reduce the risk of mould, which can cause permanent damage. 
• If mould is present, always wear protective equipment such as gloves and masks. Move mould-affected items away from other items to prevent spreading.
• If there's too much material to handle quickly, use your list of records to prioritize treatment.
• Remember to record where records have been moved.
• Drying documents:
• Handle documents with care to reduce the risk of tearing.
• Gently rinse dirt off before drying.
• Move documents to a space where the temperature and humidity can be controlled. A cool, dry space with lots of air flow is best. Use fans to circulate air.
• Lay documents flat on a clean, sturdy surface lined with clean paper towels, and replace towels as they become soaked.
• Put paper towel or clean white paper in between leaves of books.
• Don't try to pull apart paper that is stuck together. Freeze and consult a conservator.
• Don't blot water-soluble ink.
• Hang photographs from a clothes-line or dry face up on paper towel. If photos are stuck together, don't try to separate them. Freeze them and consult a conservator.

• Freezing documents:
• If records can't be dried within 48 hours, freezing is an option. 
• If possible, pack items in milk crates or something that will allow air to circulate.
• Pack documents flat with freezer paper every few inches or between folders with bigger documents at the bottom
• Pack books spine down with freezer paper between each book. Don't pack too tightly, but don't allow books to sag.
• Place records in an industrial freezer, or a frost-free model household freezer on its coldest setting to avoid the formation of ice crystals.
• When time allows, thaw and follow drying procedures.

Documents are gently rinsed to remove dirt and debris during a training exercise.

ARCAT staff photo

Photos are hung to dry on a clothes-line.

ARCAT staff photo

Wet documents are laid on paper towel.

ARCAT staff photo

Paper towel is placed between pages to wick moisture away.

ARCAT staff photo

Remember! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! We're always here to help with planning and response, and there are lots of resources available to help you learn about what to do in an emergency:

• Toronto flood plain map: https://trca.ca/conservation/flood-risk-management/flood-plain-map-viewer/
• Toronto Region Conservation Authority flooding preparation guidelines: https://trca.ca/conservation/flood-risk-management/prepare/
• American Federal Emergency Management Agency guide to flood preparation for businesses: https://tinyurl.com/yxmue6lk
• Ontario Flood Forecasting and Warning Program: https://www.ontario.ca/law-and-safety/flood-forecasting-and-warning-program
• Public Safety Canada Emergency Preparedness Guide: https://www.getprepared.gc.ca/cnt/rsrcs/pblctns/yprprdnssgd/yprprdnssgd-eng.pdf
• Governent of Canada tips for being flood ready: https://www.canada.ca/en/campaign/flood-ready.html
• Library of Congress guide for treating wet documents: https://www.loc.gov/preservation/emergprep/dry.html
• Minnesota Historical Society Salvage Procedures for Wet Items: http://www.mnhs.org/preserve/conservation/emergency.php
• Northeast Document Conservation Center Emergency Salvage of Wet Books and Records: https://tinyurl.com/ycugw768 

Encapsulating & Mounting a Panoramic Photograph

A panoramic photograph was recently donated to us that features an impressive group shot of people standing in front of St. Patrick's Church, Toronto, during the 3rd German Catholic Convention of the Province of Ontario in 1937. Upon receiving the photograph, it was evident that it had been rolled up for quite some time due to its strong curl. In an effort to flatten the photograph while minimizing the risk of cracking, the photograph was placed in our humidification chamber and flattened. For more information and instructions on how to humidify and flatten an item, check out our previous blog post on the topic. 

 

After the process was complete, this is what I was left with:



While I was happy with the results, I was reminded that paper fibres have the ability to remember how they have been treated in the past. Therefore, I wasn't confident that this guy wouldn't attempt to curl himself back up again.

To ensure that the print remain flat, I decided to encapsulate it and mount it. Here's how I did it!

First, the supplies and tools you'll need:

A tape measure, archival-safe double sided tape, box cutter

Mylar sheet, foam core board

Mylar acts to keep the print flat as well as provide support. It also protects against fingerprints and its transparency allows the print to be viewed while in its enclosure. I chose a more sturdy foam core board to mount the print since I wanted to ensure that it would not curl again. If this is not a concern, you can opt for any kind of archival board.

First, you want to measure the panoramic photograph.

Next, you want to cut two identical pieces of Mylar that are large enough to cover the entire print with 5-8cm of extra Mylar on all sides.

I recommend taking this opportunity to clean any dust/debris from the Mylar sheets using any regular microfibre cleaning cloth:

Next, apply the double sided tape to one piece of Mylar. I recommend only applying tape on the long edges, that way the print is secured but you're still able to slide it in and out of the enclosure.

Once you put the second piece of Mylar on top of the first, you can slide the print into the sleeve you've created. Since it was a challenge to line up both pieces of Mylar perfectly, I ended up trimming the edges to clean it up.

After this, you can put double sided tape on the back of the encapsulated print along the two long edges and stick it to your mounting board.

Next, trim the excess mounting board from the print leaving as much space as you prefer. I decided to trim it so it aligned with the edge of the Mylar.

You've encapsulated and mounted a panoramic photograph! Feel free to label it and store it as you see fit. Since the photograph is secure and safe in its encapsulation, it can go directly on a shelf. If you encapsulate more prints, these can be stacked on top of each other with a protective board placed on the very top. Alternatively, an encapsulated and mounted print can be placed in secondary housing such as an archival box.

For more information on caring for panoramic photographs, check out this Kathleen A. Kinakin's Thesis on the topic.

Making a phase box for architectural drawings

Here at the Archives of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Toronto, our holdings include over 1,000 architectural drawings, with further accruals being accessioned regularly. The majority of these drawings are stored in tubes, as seen below.

A recent accession came into the archives that included several architectural drawings. While the majority of them fit nicely into tubes, two drawings in particular were simply too large. Trying to squeeze an oversized roll into a small tube is a losing battle that feels a lot like this:

Once I realized that tubes were not a viable option, this forced me to get crafty. Scouring the web, I found a tutorial for making a non-adhesive phase box for a rare book. I was determined to adapt this simple method to suit the architectural drawings. After my first box was a success, I decided to create my own tutorial as I worked through my second box.

First, here are the supplies that you will require:

I used Neutracor B-Flute Board, but you can use any archival board depending on the amount of support your object needs.

Additionally, you will need the following supplies and tools:

To prepare the architectural drawings, roll them tightly and secure the roll with cotton tape.

Next, measure the roll and record its length, width and height.

*To ensure that the box would fit the roll, I added an extra inch onto each measurement. I also made the height and width the same measurement so that the box would be a perfect square.

Thus, my final working measurements were:

L = 25"

W = 6"

H = 6"

The first piece that is cut is the vertical piece. This is the piece that the roll will sit on. It will be need to be wide enough and long enough to accommodate the object's length, width and height. It also requires extra board to serve as flaps.

Ideally, the length of each flap would measure half the length of the object (in this case, 12.5") in order to cover the entire object once they are folded down. Unfortunately, my board was not long enough for this, so I used what board was left.

Width = W

Length = Flap [fold] H [fold] L [fold] H [fold] Flap
 

Using a pencil and ruler to make the fold lines, carefully fold the board. I refrained from folding the flaps until assembling the box to ensure that everything lines up in the end.

The second piece that is cut is the horizontal piece. This is the piece that wraps around the entire roll, enclosing it in a box.

Width = W [fold] H [fold] W [fold] H [fold] W

Length = L

Using a pencil and ruler to make the fold lines, carefully fold the board.

To start assembling the box, the vertical piece is placed on top, with the horizontal piece acting as a cradle. Use tape to temporarily hold the pieces in place.

This is where I took a moment to assemble my box in order to determine where the flaps need to be folded. Folding the horizontal piece together, you can use tape to temporarily hold the box together. By folding up the vertical piece to enclose the box, you can mark where the flaps need to be and fold them carefully so that they can be tucked inside the box.

Next, go back a step. Decide how many ties you require to keep your box secured. I decided on three. Use the box cutter to make rows of two slits, being sure to cut through both pieces.

Next, cut your cotton tape into lengths that can be wrapped around the box and tied. To thread the cotton tape through more easily, I used a safety pin as a 'needle'.

When the tapes are threaded through, pull them so that the boards are fixed in place. Remove the temporary tape.

Now you're ready to box up the object. Place the roll on the vertical piece, fold up the horizontal piece overtop, and tuck in the vertical flaps.

Once the box is closed, tie the tapes to secure.

Stick a label on it, and you're done!

The Humidification Chamber: conserving photographs and documents

In January, we blogged about photographs we had recently acquired after they were discovered at the former Paulist Ministry Centre (previously the Catholic Information Centre).

The photographs were part of a poster entitled "1957-1958 Building the New Information Centre." Receiving this poster gave us an opportunity to practice some basic conservation and use our favourite device: the humidification chamber.

This inexpensive tool is remarkably effective for softening documents and photographs that have been rolled or creased so they can be flattened. Essentially, a humidification chamber is a sealed container that holds moisture, while preventing the documents from actually coming in contact with water.

In this case, we wanted to see if humidity would soften the glue that was used to adhere the photos to the poster board.

This was the original poster when it was transferred to the archives. There were twelve photographs glued to a banged-up piece of foamcore, along with some labels. The bottom photo was missing.

We appraised the contextual value of keeping the poster in this format: the glue and the foamcore were not archival quality; the poster was not particularly informative or aesthetically significant; it would require a large storage space. Therefore, we decided to remove the photos and discard the backing, but first we took this photo for reference.

Two of the photographs are duplicates: can you spot the matching pair?

When we first went through the humidification process, we used only the two duplicate photos to make sure it would work safely. After successful results, we humidified the remaining ten photos.

Here is our step-by-step process:

Step 1: Using a knife, cut the poster into smaller pieces containing the individual photos.

Step 2: Seal the photographs in the humidification chamber.

The chamber is a closed container that holds humidity, while preventing the documents from actually coming in contact with the water.

Our chamber is made from a storage bin with cooling racks (used for baking) raised off the bottom and secured to the walls with zip ties. Photos are placed on the racks, an inch of water is poured into the bin and plastic sheeting is secured with masking tape to seal in the air. As the water slowly evaporates at room temperature, the surrounding air becomes very humid and the documents absorb the moisture.

Step 3: Let the humidity work its magic. Check on the material periodically.

Materials absorb humidity at different rates. The clear container allowed us to check for progress. Over the course of the day, the photographs buckled and pulled away from the backing, indicating that the glue was sufficiently softened.

Step 4: Lift the photographs from the backing using a conservator's scalpel. In this case, they peeled right off.

Step 5: Place the moistened items between sheeting to be pressed.

The photos were placed on Reemay, a polyester used as a support for drying materials because it's non-stick. This was important because the glue on the back of the photos was reactivated by the humidity and quite tacky. Paper towels were placed on top of the Reemay, as a blotting material to absorb moisture.

Step 6: Press the moistened documents between so they dry flat. Leave overnight.

Step 7: Remove dry material from the press.

Bonus: we discovered extra labelling on the back of the photographs which helped us to further identify, date and describe the items.

Step 8: Rehouse and store the material.

The photos were placed in plastic sleeves, housed in acid-free archival boxes, and stored in climate controlled storage.

We have also had success using the humidification chamber for flattening rolled blueprints.  We do this specifically for architectural drawings that are crumpled, torn and brittle, which makes them very difficult to flatten for viewing.

Architectural Drawings Special Collection, ARCH 008 C

Fragile and damaged 1926 blueprints of Corpus Christi church, Toronto, are placed in the humidification chamber overnight.

The blueprints absorb moisture, making them pliable enough to be unrolled and pressed so that they dry flat. 

(In this case, scotch tape had been previously used in spots to repair the tears. Unfortunately, the humidity had little effect on the tape's adhesive. We decided to leave it rather than risk further damage by trying to remove it.  Never use tape on important records! Tape is the bane of archivists' existence.) 

After drying overnight, the flattened drawing is supported with museum board, interleaved with acid-free tissue and stored flat in an oversize archival box.

DIY humidification chambers can be made in a variety of ways. You can use a sink or nesting storage bins. Read more on how to make a humidification chamber.